Who creates Chanel and how

July 20, 2023
Maison MichelMaison Michel
Barrie KnitwearBarrie Knitwear

Chanel is a fashion house created by a woman with the most French outlook on life, with the first boutique opened in the very center of Paris, and representing the very understanding of "French chic". Today, clothes, bags, shoes, accessories and other fashion house items are sold all over the world, but most of the production is still concentrated in France. The brand's bags are also made in Italy, and some small leather goods and jewelry are made in Spain.

For all the scale of Chanel, the history and present of the fashion house are closely connected with small traditional ateliers, united by the name Metiers d'art. These workshops have been creating buttons, embroidery, pleating, tweed, hats, shoes for decades on the orders of the brand, demonstrating the inexhaustibility of Chanel's creative inspiration and the virtuosity of master craftsmen.

Desrues, the first company to become a "satellite" of the fashion house, began producing buttons commissioned by Gabrielle Chanel in 1965. Later, the workshop will be engaged in jewelry and will become the property of a fashion house. Today Desrues produces 4,000 buttons for Chanel every day and eight jewelry collections a year.

This French house works with Belle Époque herself, manually decorating the works of a number of fashion houses with feathers, flowers, inlays, flounces and frills. In the 60s, Coco ordered a camellia from the atelier, Lemarié collected it perfect, petal to petal, the rest is history.

Chanel's collaboration with the Massaro shoe workshop began with the famous two-tone slingbacks. Women changed their stilettos for comfortable and elegant shoes with six-centimeter heels, which allowed them to move more freely than ever. Since then, Massaro shoe makers have been creating a variety of shoes for the fashion house from season to season.

Atelier of embroiderers and weavers Lesage simultaneously protects the unique craft of embroidery, passed down from generation to generation for 160 years and all the time creates something new - motifs, textures, patterns, materials. Since 1996, Lesage has been rethinking tweed, the main legacy of Coco Chanel, from time to time, adding the most unexpected materials to woolen threads.

Gabrielle Chanel offered Robert Goossens to be the official supplier of the fashion house almost immediately — together they recreated ancient jewelry, designed furniture for the first boutique. This was followed by many years of production of jewelry made of semiprecious stones and silvered or gilded bronze.

French girls and women will always wear hats — so the Maison Michel atelier, created in 1936, continues to search for new solutions for hats. Their boaters, veils, caps and berets evolve at the pace of the fashion house and are used as accessories in every collection.

Daisies, forget-me-nots, jasmine, roses, lilies of the valley, lilies, lilacs, gerberas made of silk, denim, organza, muslin, velvet, leather, lace - throughout its more than a century-old history, Atelier Guillet collects all kinds of flowers from a variety of materials, as well as their buds, stems and leaves. First for the theater, and then for other fashion houses.

The combination of age—old traditions and modern creativity is the magic of the Montex embroidery studio. Here, sophisticated, sophisticated, modern, luxurious motifs are created every season, embroidered with a simple needle, a Luneville crochet or on a manually operated Cornely sewing machine, which is more than a hundred years old.

Since Karl Lagerfeld joined the small haberdashery brand to the fashion house, it produces about twenty-five thousand gloves a year with the help of only forty people, decorates and protects women's hands. The famous fingerless gloves that the Kaiser wore all year round were their handiwork.

An exception to the list is an old Scottish knitting factory with an emphasis on the production of cashmere, which dressed the British army during the two World Wars in its sweaters. For the past thirty years, Atelier Barrie, in addition to functioning as an autonomous cashmere brand, has been producing the legendary two-tone Chanel cardigan, soft and durable.

Today, Maison Lognon, specializing in pleating, combines traditional craft and advanced digital technology. Skillful mastery consists of a game of planes and volumes and requires painstaking precision and dexterity — work with fabric is carried out simultaneously by two masters and requires perfect synchronization of the movements of their hands.

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